BEST TRAVEL FINDS OF 2010

Tue, 18 Jan 2011 19:27:26 +0100

Last year was a great one for hotel and restaurant openings, particularly for the intimate and one of a kind places I love. Here were the best of the spots that I was lucky enough to check out in 2010.

See the post at the Huffington Post

Can’t Miss Travel Tips for 2010

Sat, 23 Jan 2010 16:18:48 +0100

Is it really already nearing the end of January? Time to think about some can't-miss hotels, exhibitions and goings-on for 2010:
* The Irving Penn exhibit at the National Portrait Gallery in London starting February 18th. Penn passed away in October, and the retrospective pays homage to one of the most unparalleled photographers in history. Expect shots of notables from Truman Capote to Pablo Picasso.
* The new Four Seasons Beirut, which just opened its doors last week. I have had a bee in my bonnet about visiting Beirut for some time, and the debut of both the Four Seasons and the stylish Le Gray makes a sojourn even more tempting. Look for special weekend and opening offers.
* The opening of Eataly in New York City. There is still no official opening date for this behemoth, but expect the Manhattan outpost of this huge Italian gourmet market to give Whole Foods a real run for its money. Co-owner Joe Bastianich tells me that late spring seems the likely debut.
* Mexican boutique hotel Imanta near Puerto Vallarta. This gorgeous looking property is set to open in February and I am already cooking up a visit. For more travel ideas on that coast, check out my surf story. One of the best trips ever.
* If you missed the Anish Kapoor's wonderful steel and wax sculptures at the Royal Academy in London, they're coming to the Guggenheim Bilbao March 16th. It will be the perfect setting for the exhibit's house of mirrors effect.
* The new Maharajas' Express launching in March. How sad that the Orient Express train has stopped running, but at least this new Indian railway will be filling in the luxe category. It will run from Mumbai to Calcutta, taking in sights from the Taj Mahal to Ranthambore National Park. With two restaurant cars, an observation lounge with bar and games tables, and cabins with LCD televisions, Maharajas' Express seems like it will put a little romance back into train travel.
* The Amanfayun, which just opened last month outside the historic city of Hangzhou. Housed in an old stone village originally founded under the Tang Dynasty, the property seems secluded even though it's only a 20-minute drive to the city's countless pagodas, historic temples, and tea plantations along the picturesque West Lake.
Happy travels...

Retail Therapy in Paris

Wed, 13 Jan 2010 00:17:17 +0100

I didn't get to make my annual Paris expedition last year due to travels elsewhere and I really missed it especially for the killer shopping opportunities (among my favorite stops are Vanessa Bruno for dresses, Paul and Joe for chic separates and suits, Sabbia Rosa on the Rue des Saint-Peres for suitably silky lingerie, Christian Louboutin, natch, for the red-soled wonders, and Colette, that temple of all things cool).
Now there are two more stops to add to the pilgrimage: one of the city's coolest boutique owners, Maria Luisa Poumaillou, who has one of the sharpest eyes in fashion (she was an early champion of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen) has just opened second outpost, a stand alone store in the newly renovated Printemps department store. What's cool about this new boutique is that in addition to her glamorous handpicked selection from designers like L'Wren Scott and Roland Mouret, she is also coming up with her own first capsule collection which is sure to be a hit with the fashion set.
And then there is Merci, the new hot shop from the owners behind the children's brand Bonpoint for people looking for a deal on designer threads who also want to feel socially conscious--basically the way the concept works is that designers and collectors give some of their wares for free, then the store sells the clothes for less than retail prices, and the proceeds go to underprivileged children in Madagascar. Think Burberry, Chanel, YSL etc at a about 30-40 percent off their original price tag. It's a shopping trip you can feel good about. Now I just have to figure out when to make the next trip.

Goodbye 2009: Ondine's Favorite Travel Discoveries

Thu, 7 Jan 2010 18:12:33 +0100

Before looking ahead to the most anticipated destinations and openings of 2010, it is time to say goodbye to 2009 and ten of my favorite discoveries of the year:
* The rocky island of Giglio off the Tuscan coast. The clarity and the beauty of the sea here makes up for the parts of Italy's mainland, which have been marred by excessive development.
* Cartagena and the wonderful boutique hotel Agua. Next time I want to check out Tcherassi Hotel + Spa, the brand new property by Colombia's most famous fashion designer.
* Minetta Tavern. There were a number of excellent New York restaurants that opened in 2009, but my favorite had to be this restoration of a West Village classic by Keith McNally. The man has a golden touch and this reinvention has to be his most successful venture yet. I still dream of the potato sides.
* The spectacular Punta della Dogana museum that was unveiled in time for this year's Venice Biennale. Architect Tadao Ando's transformation of the city's old custom house into a gorgeous contemporary art space is a testament that landmarks can be both preserved and made even better with the right vision.
* The Remede spa at Mexico's St Regis Punta Mita. Especially on cold snowy days, I can still picture the exquisite outdoor hot tub at sunset following a hot stone massage.
* The Miami Mondrian's Sky Lounge. The cocktails were good, but what set it apart were the views of Biscayne Bay and downtown Miami--not to mention the too-fast-to-last crowd. The scene captured a city still parties hard during (and maybe because of) a recession.
* La Reserve Ramatuelle in the South of France. This beautiful minimal new property was a breath of fresh air compared to the fusty grand dame properties of old. And the views of the Cote d' Azur made me realize why this is still one of the most beautiful spots in Europe.
* London's Pizza East. In case you haven't noticed, artisanal pizza spots are all the rage in New York and London (even Ferran Adria is rumored to be opening a pizza joint in Barcelona in 2010). The latest offering from the Shoreditch House group has a buzzy, crowd-pleasing vibe and I liked the pies, especially the potato, garlic, rosemary, fontina and parmesan option. Oh and of course, Naples's Da Michele also took me to pizza nirvana.
* Los Angeles's Palate Food + Wine in Glendale, the latest from Octavio Becerra who was the former chef at Patina. The combination of a great wine list and wonderful small dishes (including to die for cheeses) made me realize yet again that Los Angeles has become a real foodie mecca.
* New York's Crosby Street Hotel, the best new property in town thanks to owners Kit and Tim Kemp who have brought their English magic stateside. I love the huge windows in the rooms overlooking SoHo, the sweet and helpful staff, and the private drawing room that's the perfect spot for afternoon tea or a business meeting.

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New York Hotel Restaurants Now Home to Top Chefs

Mon, 28 Dec 2009 23:54:23 +0100

A decade ago, a hotel restaurant was mostly an afterthought, the sad stomping grounds of weary business travelers and harried families who couldn't make it off site to somewhere better. But in the last few years particularly, an on-site eatery has become a property's star attraction drawing both well-heeled locals as well as discerning out-of-towners. This season it's Manhattan's turn for some new hotel joints helmed by some of the city's top chefs. Last week, for example, I checked out Danny Meyer's new Maialino in the Gramercy Park Hotel, an inspired take on a typical Roman trattoria. Two weeks before, I had dined at a similar spot in Italy's capital and I have to say that the food in Meyer's place was even better: classic pasta alla amatriciana (spicy tomato and pancetta sauce), lip smacking lamb chops "Scottadito," which literally means finger-blistering, and a delicious whole spigola, sea bass delicately cooked with olive oil and a touch of lemon. The place was bustling but friendly and the wine list excellent, albeit a bit pricier than its more humble Italian counterparts. This week, the restaurant is also launching its breakfast service.
But Meyer isn't the only New York celeb chef opening a hotel outpost. The new Breslin in the Ace Hotel, the latest from April Bloomfield (who made a big name for herself at the Spotted Pig and the late John Dory), will be on my must-stop list for the new year.

I expect a meat-centric menu that includes a lamb burger with cumin mayo and "thrice cooked" fries, and stuffed pig's foot, and my friend Adam Rapoport from GQ says that the goat cheese and leek tart is unmissable. Meanwhile, in the newly revamped Pierre Hotel, a New York sister to London's celeb magnet Le Caprice has just debuted. It sounds like the perfect spot for a ladies' or a power lunch--preferably a meal on an expense account--when you need somewhere suitably grand in Midtown.   Next up: In 2010, Momofuku chef David Chang protégé Tien Ho will open Má Pêche in the Chambers Hotel. I just had an inspired meal at Momofuku Ssam and I can't wait to see what the downtown impresario has next up his sleeve; he will be in charge of room service menus as well.

The Latest Grand Dame Revamps

Wed, 23 Dec 2009 16:33:46 +0100

One of the main hotel trends I have noticed in the last few years is the revamp of the grand dame properties. Basically after these places become a little fusty the owners inject a good amount of cash, hire a hot shot interior designer, add a few funky details like a great spa or bar, and voila the place gets a whole new round of buzz and a new generation of guests. Among the impressive models for this kind of reinvention (and there are lots more): La Mamounia's redesign by Jacques Garcia (Gwyneth Paltrow and Jennifer Aniston added to the celeb quotient when they went to grand opening over Thanksgiving), the Pierre's $100 million refurbishment and a new Le Caprice restaurant, the Plaza Athenée with its great Champagne bar, and the Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat in the south of France. The Hotel Bel Air in Los Angeles is currently closed for renovation, but I am expecting the same kind of buzz after its unveiling in 2011, with a new spa and villas among the additions.
Another recent debut that I am excited about is Milan's Principe di Savoia following a $50 million redo. Rock star designer Thierry Despont--who was behind other such reinvented classics as Claridge's and the Dorchester--has given the place new life, added some suitably sexy new suites, and brought in the former DJ from Miami's Delano to pump up the bar scene. But the centerpiece is a new rooftop pool with its great views of the city--and the Alps on a clear day. Of course, the fashion crowd is already jostling for a prime room for the spring shows.

The 2010 It List

Wed, 16 Dec 2009 01:18:17 +0100

It's that time of year again, the moment to unveil my annual It List for Concierge.com that features the destinations that I think travelers will (or should be) keeping on their radars in the upcoming year. Some highlights:
* A number of the places are spots that I would love to travel to myself, like Burma and Sri Lanka.
* Two destinations that have made big impacts on me: Colombia and Venice, which has a number of recent hotels and museums breathing some new life into the must-see city.
* Black Tomato's Clemmie Harvey turned me on to Kyrgyzstan. At first, I must confess, I was somewhat skeptical, but after a little research, I was completely convinced that it is an adventure person's dream: heli-skiing in the peaks of the Tien Shan mountains (with no other tourists around), horseback riding along the Silk Route. If I wasn't knocked up right now I would head there in a heartbeat.
* Cuba has been on my wish list for years. With a bill going through congress that might open up travel there, it seems like we might be legally able to make the journey in 2010.
Read my It List for more.

Mozambique: Gorongosa National Park Opens Back Up

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:21:58 +0100

One of the most memorable trips I have taken for Condé Nast Traveler was to Mozambique a few years back (read "A Once and Future Eden" from the December 2007 issue). The country was spectacularly beautiful, with barely developed tropical islands in the north and south (and some of the best diving I have ever experienced), vibrant cities like Maputo with its Afro-Portuguese influences, and huge tracts of park land at its interior. The richness of both the culture and the landscapes made Mozambique's devastating Civil War that much more poignant--although I was very heartened by the way the country was recovering.
One of the most inspirational of the places I visited was Gorongosa National Park, reputed to be the place where Noah left his ark and animals. Once a glorious wildlife retreat, it had been decimated by the war: most of the animals had been wiped out by the opposing armies who used them as bush meat. Even though the accommodation was very basic at the time, the place had an incredible amount of potential for eco-tourism. So I was very happy to receive word that after three years of restoration, the property has opened a new safari camp, the Explorer's Camp, with trips starting to run there with luxe outfitters like Caznove + Loyd. There are only four tents (so, a maximum of eight guests) with custom itineraries on foot to see the returning populations of elephants, lions and hippos (not to mention the amazing bird life) and to explore Gorongosa Mountain with its beautiful forest and waterfalls. I am so pleased that the destination is opening up for more visitors while being conscious of its impact.
Further reading: * A Once and Future Eden: Recovered from a civil war and balancing the conservation of great natural beauty with sophisticated resorts, Mozambique is an African hope fulfilled * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwideOne of the best aspects to the property is its neighborhood. Near Campo Santo Stefano, the hotel is also nestled behind the Palazzo Grassi, one of the city's best new contemporary art museums, and only a short walk to must-stops like San Marco, the Accademia, and the funky neighborhood of Dorsoduro.
Looking for somewhere to eat nearby? Grab a plate of delicious cicchetti, Venice's answer to tapas, and great wine by the glass at Bacaro da Fiore on Calle delle Botteghe.
Further reading: * Show Stopper: An insider's Venice (CNT, December 2008) * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Thanksgiving in London

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:17:23 +0100

Thanksgiving in London has become a tradition for me. In fact, this holiday marks my twelfth year of making the pilgrimage and I love it. I celebrate the festivities with my dear friend's family (whose mother is American so they go all out on the turkey, fixings and pies) and then we have plenty of time to check out restaurants, go to the season's blockbuster exhibits, and to do a little retail damage at Topshop. Read after the jump for a list of some of my must-dos.

* Have a long lunch or dinner at the River Café, my favorite restaurant in town. Last night, for example, I had an incredible Cornish crab salad followed by delicate pumpkin ravioli and finished with amazing caramel ice cream. Chefs Ruthie Rogers and Rose Gray's latest River Café Cookbook will be out in the States soon.

* Breakfast at the Wolseley, owned by my one of my favorite restaurateurs ever, Jeremy King (who also owns New York's Monkey Bar with Graydon Carter). I love the scene there in the morning, bustling and full of businesspeople having early morning meetings. It is a total power breakfast spot and the food is great.

* An Indian meal, of course. Among my preferred spots, the Star of India on Old Brompton Road, stylish Amaya and Salloos by the Berkeley hotel.

* A pint or two at a pub. I usually stop into the Cow in Notting Hill for a Guinness and some excellent food--it's part of the new gastropub generation and the oysters are wonderfully briny and fresh.

* Window shop or splurge at Dover Street Market packed with goodies from Comme des Garcons and other labels, not to mention great coffee table books and CDs. The upstairs café is the perfect spot for a tea and afternoon meeting.

* A blustery walk in Hyde Park, on Primrose Hill, or in Regent's Park. London has a plethora of wonderful green spaces.
* A movie at the Electric Cinema, with its comfy armchairs and bar in the back, in case you fancy a tipple mid flick.

Piedmont: Italy’s Underrated Foodie Destination

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 18:45:57 +0100

Already visited Tuscany and made the pilgrimage to Umbria? As far as I am concerned, Piedmont remains one of Italy's most underrated destinations, which makes it one of the most pleasant and well-priced regions in the country. November is the perfect time to visit: the wine harvest has recently finished so you can get a taste of the new vintages, the foliage and vines are turning beautiful shades of yellow, red and brown, and best of all it's truffle season. Almost every good restaurant in Piedmont has a special truffle tasting menu. (Not to knock the great truffle offerings in cities like London or New York, but a fresh truffle that travels at most a few hours from dirt to dining table tastes way better than one shipped overseas.) Fresh, delicate, and just slightly pungent--hell, I understand why local prized pigs make whole careers out of foraging them. Maybe I'll sign up for their job.
Last week I dined at I Bologna, an amazing family-run institution near Asti (4 Via Nicola Sardi, Rocchetta Tanaro; 39-0141/644-600) and one of the holy grails of Italian restaurants. Here's the truffle-heavy menu bring served that day: an egg coddled with truffles (sublime), fresh taglierini made by the mother of the chef and topped with shavings of white truffle (they melted into the buttery pasta), and a fresh hazelnut parfait with caramel sauce that was so good I wanted to order two. My husband nibbled on local goat cheese accompanied by a marmalade made out of Barbera grapes and sipped the family's Monte Bruna Barbera Asti wine, which is a veritable bargain at 30 euros. It was one of those meals where I wanted to kneel on the floor and give thanks. (Don't worry, I restrained myself.) I Bologna was the first of a few days of truffle eating, a journey that only ended because, frankly, I couldn't eat anymore.
Further reading: * Looking for another amazing Italian foodie destination? Check out Patrick Symmes's recent story in Condé Nast Traveler about Emilia-Romagna.  * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Palazzina Grassi Opens in Venice

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:29:27 +0100

Just back from Venice, where the big news is the opening of the Palazzina Grassi hotel this week. The place wasn't quite finished yet when I took the grand tour, but it was already clear that the property is going to a stylish and intimate addition to the city's hotel scene. The project marks designer Philippe Starck's first foray into Italy, and although there are plenty of modern, playful touches (like his signature oversize lamps and furniture), he used lots of local materials, too. You'll find handmade Murano glass and mirrors (there are about 298 on site, so you better like looking at yourself), Venetian plaster walls in reds and greens, and traditional terrazzo floors throughout the property's 24 rooms. (Those rooms are set out between two buildings dating from the 19th and 16th centuries, but the kick-ass suites are in the older structure overlooking the Grand Canal). In addition to a restaurant and bar that are open to the public, there will be a second bar area downstairs that's reserved for hotel guests only. Supposedly VIP Venetians will be invited there, too, as part of a members-only club--I bet it will become celeb central during the Film Festival and the Biennale.
One of the best aspects to the property is its neighborhood. Near Campo Santo Stefano, the hotel is also nestled behind the Palazzo Grassi, one of the city's best new contemporary art museums, and only a short walk to must-stops like San Marco, the Accademia, and the funky neighborhood of Dorsoduro.
Looking for somewhere to eat nearby? Grab a plate of delicious cicchetti, Venice's answer to tapas, and great wine by the glass at Bacaro da Fiore on Calle delle Botteghe.
Further reading: * Show Stopper: An insider's Venice (CNT, December 2008) * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Switzerland's New Snowy Retreat: Hidden Dragon

Tue, 10 Nov 2009 10:14:45 +0100

Looking for a snowy retreat with plenty of pampering? I just got an email from Ashlee Benis about her new hideaway in Switzerland's 4-Valley region that seriously piqued my interest. Hidden Dragon, which opened a couple of months ago, is nestled in a forest away from the crowds but close to some of the region's best skiing with ski-in ski-out access to more than 92 runs linking resorts like Verbier, Thyon and Les Masses. Even more interesting, though, is how Benis's Eurasian background has impacted the design and ethos of the place: instead of a conventional chalet approach, she built the lodge using feng shui principles and included an Eastern-oriented spa with yoga and meditation rooms as well as traditional massage areas to soothe ski-weary muscles. Other nice touches include a hot tub overlooking the mountains, a state of the art wine cellar with an emphasis on Bordeaux vintages, and a screening room for cozy evening movies. It seems like the perfect spot to rent as a family or group of friends. Now I just have to figure out when I can make an escape there.
Looking for more Swiss insight? The November issue of Condé Nast Traveler includes a 16 page pull-out on the country with tips on cool spas, cutting edge architecture and the best ski spots.www.cnn.com

The Zeitz Foundation's Getaways That Do Good

Mon, 2 Nov 2009 18:42:39 +0100

Jochen Zeitz is one of the most successful CEOs in the world, and he didn't start running Puma until the ripe old age of 30. So, when he contacted me last year about creating a network of sustainable, socially conscious retreats--including one that he had already started to build in Kenya--I was extremely interested in learning more. I helped Zeitz narrow in on some places that I thought he should consider, like Indonesia's Nihiwatu, but it was clear that the guy had done his research. It was also clear that he was interested in more than a press release; he dismissed resorts that didn't truly help to better their communities.
Last week Zeitz officially launched his foundation with nine spots in Brazil, Tanzania and New Zealand, among other locations. His goal? To "provide and build sustainable, mostly tourism-driven enterprises, community development and cultural stewardship," and "projects that balance conservation, community, culture, and commerce...a model that shows how working toward ecosphere safety can be commercially viable." The new properties try to both protect endangered areas and promote cultural diversity and local stewardship. For a list of the retreats, go to thelongrun.com.
In both the articles I have read about Zeitz and the conversations I had with him, it is clear that he is a man who travels a great deal for work, and takes the time to learn about various issues and fault lines as he does so. I am very happy that his vision now has an outlet.
Further reading: * The Zeitz Foundation Web site * The Long Run destinations * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Brooklyn’s Henry Public

Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:41:39 +0100

As you may have noticed from my Brooklyn's Own Little Italian Empire post, this former Brooklyn resident hasn't forgotten about her borough or its foodie scene. The latest must try on my list? Henry Public, the recent opening from friends Matt Dawson and Jen Albano who made Brooklyn Social my go-to stop in Carroll Gardens. The tasty panini and painstakingly made cocktails also made it my preferred place to recharge after a long-haul flight.
This new venture brings comfort food dishes like grass-fed hamburgers, turkey leg sandwiches and freshly shucked oysters together with another fab-sounding drinks list--the "Public Smash" with bourbon, mint, maple syrup and aromatic bitters, "Two-cents Fancy" with pear, tarragon honey, and champagne, and "Kings County Sour" with rye whiskey, lemon, sugar, egg white and port float, all sound like they could render decision making difficult. If you are around on the weekend, you can even stop in during the day for an egg sandwich, coffee, or better yet, another cocktail. I was already sold on the concept, but as luck would have it I had dinner this week with a woman who works at Saveur magazine (so good food cred) who went in on the restaurant's opening night. Her verdict: a solid thumb's up for both the food and the cozy 19th century-inspired decor. So if you are in the 'hood, head on in.
329 Henry St.; 718-852-8630

Sicily Under My Skin

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:01:30 +0200

Sicily has gotten under my skin. This marks my third annual trip to the Italian island--I first covered it on a pilgrimage to find an Italian wine baron and then last year I scouted its best beaches. This year I found myself first in Palermo, and then at Rocco Forte's new resort, Verdura Resort and Spa, for a quick September getaway.
Palermo, as always, didn't disappoint; a dilapidated chaotic gritty city that's still home to grand palazzi and amazing examples of Arab and Norman architecture. This isn't a sanitized tourist destination, though: on my first night there, all the street lights went out, leaving me in a small alley in total darkness for a good five minutes. Among my new discoveries was the BB22, a chic bed and breakfast next to the Vucurria food market, another one of my picks. BB22 was great, especially for 150 euros, and the staff was friendly and helpful. I also checked out Cana Enoteca, a little wine bar not far from Piazza Marina that proved a gem for its selection of Sicilian vintages (don't miss the reds from Mount Etna), large plates of cheese and local salamis, and cozy wood-paneled atmosphere. If I lived in town, it would definitely become my favored neighborhood spot.
The following morning I headed on to Verdura, a resort that's been generating a lot of buzz in Italy.

Not far from the Valley of the Temples, Verdura sits on its stretch of coast with a private beach, three golf courses, a destination spa, and three restaurants. The property didn't necessarily have a strong sense of place--it was more like one of those gated community hotels you find in parts of Mexico--so it still has a bit of growing in to do. This is not to say that it isn't luxurious--designer Olga Polizzi did a great job with the interiors, the spa and its indoor pool were beautiful, and the views of the sea incredible--but it is more a retreat than a place to sleep when you're not immersing yourself in the "real Sicily."
Luckily, I did get a taste of just that on my way back to the airport. After a stop at the Greek temples that make Agrigento so famous, I wanted a seafood lunch at a local spot. The travel gods were smiling on me that day, because I ended up in Siculiana Marina, a little northwest of Agrigento, where my prayers were answered. At Lustru di Luna (Via Lungomare, 108; 39-0922-815-198) I found a trattoria with outdoor seating perched over one of the prettiest beaches I have seen in Sicily, surrounded by Italian families enjoying Sunday lunch on a unseasonably warm sunny day. A pasta with swordfish and a the most delicious orata (sea bass) set me back just 20 euros. Talk about serendipitous. And all you need is a GPS device to find it.
Further reading: * Not Your Godfather's Sicily: Away from the island's familiar sweet spots, a new generation of Sicilians is reshaping its wine, food, and hotels (CNT, January 2009) * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwidewww.cnn.com

Tokyo Gets an Opening Ceremony

Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:15:13 +0200

Have a penchant for fashion and want to travel to get your fix? Opening Ceremony, one of retail's most cutting edge shops and design groups, recently opened a 50,000 square foot flagship in Japan's capital that's already a fashion world darling. Helmed by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim--who have built their concept from a fledgling group of international designers (hence the name play on the Olympics) to one of the most fashion forward and successful undertakings in years--the store certainly seems to fly in the face of recent economic woes. The eight floor extravaganza showcases the duo's own designs alongside a devoted shop to Alexander Wang, a new line from Chloe Sevigny, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and Acne jeans, among others. The launch party was similarly celeb studded--Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Jason Schwartzman, Kirsten Dunst, and Sean Lennon (and mom Yoko Ono) were among the attendees. And Opening Ceremony isn't the only stateside shop to end up in Tokyo of late; LA's Kitson and a new Tom Ford outpost are also about to open their doors. Get your credit cards ready!
Further reading: * Etiquette 101: Dress Codes (fanny packs not allowed) * That Mango Will Blow Your Damn Mind: Adam Platt on Tokyo's fanatical foodies (CNT, September 2007) * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Surf’s Up

Thu, 8 Oct 2009 16:22:42 +0200

One of the trends I've been seeing of late is hotels with a surf theme or barefoot-chic beachy vibe--properties like Montauk, Long Island's popular Surf Lodge and Bungalow on the Jersey Shore.
Now there are two more to keep on your radar. The Scarlet, in England's Cornwall region, just opened a few weeks back and is already making waves for its eco-sensibility and stylish vibe. The 37-room property overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and has an Ayurvedic spa on site. Cornwall has become one of Europe's hottest surf centers--the countryside is gorgeous, and the food is just great--and I have a feeling The Scarlet is going to make the area even more of a draw.
I just found out about a new spot opening October 15 in St. Pete Beach, Florida. The Postcard Inn on the Beach is the latest from restaurateur Stephen Hanson (behind the James Hotel in Chicago), and claims to be "laid-back, beachy, and carefree" as well as affordable. Think surf-inspired accommodations, beers and burgers, and comfy hammocks by the sea. A whole generation of travelers want affordable, chic beachside places--hoteliers should keep them coming.
In the meantime, got a relaxed seaside favorite that has the surfer (or surfer wannabe) vibe? Let us know.
Further reading: * Stiletto Watch: Montauk * A New Reason to Hit the Jersey Shore This Summer * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Côte d'Azur's New Generation of Style

Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:45:39 +0200

After my visit to La Réserve Ramatuelle, outside St-Tropez, I decided to check out some other grande dame hotels in the South of France that have been recently refurbished to the tune of millions of euros.
The first stop was the storied Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, tucked away in one of the Côte d'Azur's poshest seaside enclaves. Facing the sea, the imposing building has a beach club with an Olympic-size pool and a new spa by Carita and pretty restaurant space for the property's Michelin-starred Le Cap. But it was the rooms that received the most attention during the overhaul: They are now airy and bright (with a cheery canary-yellow and white palette) and feel very spacious. If you stay in the main building, be sure to book a sea view rather than a forest view, and if you can afford to splurge, the newly built suites behind the main hotel are done in the same style as the rest of the guest rooms but some have private pools, which feels wonderfully decadent.
In nearby Monaco, the Monte Carlo Beach hotel got a similar revamp in time for summer thanks to India Mahdavi, the talented interior designer behind such projects as London's Connaught and Mexico City's Condesa DF. In a matter of months, Mahdavi transformed the Monte Carlo from tired to chic, giving the interiors a nautical feel with porthole windows, 1930s black-and-white photos from the hotel's glam days, and custom-made furniture that makes you feel like you're heading out to sea on a retro cruiser.
Further reading: * La Réserve Ramatuelle * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

La Reserve Ramatuelle

Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:07:29 +0200

Last week I had the good fortune to be in the South of France scoping out La Reserve Ramatuelle near Saint-Tropez. The property opened in May and, as the name suggests, it's a true retreat. What I think made it stand out most was the fact that even though it was close to the action of celeb central Saint-Tropez and the pretty medieval village of Ramatuelle, it felt a world apart from the tourist crowds with only 23 rooms perched over the Mediterranean. The resort was masterminded by French designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte who focused on creating airy, light-filled spaces that were still very luxurious, the perfect aesthetic for a place where the focus should be on the view.
Some European "beauty centers," while they look good are a little lightweight on treatments, but the spa at La Reserve Ramatuelle was a standout. It was obvious that my technician was just as concerned with my alignment as making sure I was relaxed as I was. And I loved the spa's internal pool, the counterpoint to the huge outdoor swimming pool that also seems to hang above the sea. It was hard to leave my room, but I did manage to make a couple of stops into Ramatuelle for the market and also to Saint-Tropez to admire the über-yachts (if the economy is bad, these seafarers didnt seem to have gotten the memo). If you are heading to the South of France you'll want to make La Reserve a part of the itinerary.
Further reading: * Feather Down Farms Getaways * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Feather Down Farms Getaways

Tue, 15 Sep 2009 16:08:43 +0200

There is nothing like difficult economic times to make you want to disconnect from urban stimulation and all things wired. At least that's the case for me; when I am on a long country walk with no cell reception or iPhone on hand it's infinitely easier to forget what's happening with the Dow or the job market. So I like the idea of the Feather Down Farms getaways, a European company come stateside that basically has you spending your holiday doing farm chores and eating meals of organic, fresh-picked ingredients.
The farm-stay chain is decidedly high-end, with accommodations in spacious tents with wood floors, bathrooms, wood-burning stoves, and comfy beds that are more B&B than rustic. But outdoorsy activities are salt of the earth, including picking organic vegetables, gathering hay, and milking goats before making cheese that might end up on your make-your-own pizza. There are a number of different farms to chose from in rural spots like the Catskills and Illinois, and the company plans to have 20 to choose from in the next year.
Feather Down Farms sounds particularly good as a family getaway--what kid doesnt like to pet a farm pony or feed the sheep? And I have recently heard of a number of investment bankers and CEOs who have left the rat race to start organic farms--this kind of vacation gives you a taste of whether country living is really for you or an idyll best just dreamed about.

Marrakech On My Mind

Mon, 7 Sep 2009 17:33:18 +0200

Morocco is a big gap in my travel education. Somehow I just haven't had the chance to get there. The hotel scene in Marrakech is one of the most exciting in the world, with a mix of small riad properties converted into boutique hotels and bigger--but still stylish--resorts. Here are some hotels opening in Morocco this fall that you should keep on your radar:
* Few hotels have as storied histories as Marrakech's La Mamounia. It seems that almost every celeb who comes to town has bedded down there--Winston Churchill and Mick Jagger are just two who come to mind. But the property had started to feel a bit run down, so the grand dame has undergone a multi-million dollar face lift. New additions include three restaurants, a 27,000 square foot spa, and glam interiors by Jacques Garcia, who designed Paris's chic Hotel Costes and the Metropole in Monte Carlo. I am betting that this will be one of the hottest hotel openings of the fall and winter season. Doors are set to open at the end of this month.
* Le Royal Mansour, owned by the King of Morocco, sounds like it will be indeed palatial with 53 individual riads (ranging in size from 1,400 square feet to over 21,000!) set into the ancient wall of the city and covering eight acres of landscaped gardens. The property includes a huge spa with an indoor pool and three restaurants under the helm of Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno. The project is part of the King's "Vision 2010" initiative to promote tourism and jobs in the hospitality sector. When it opens in November, riad prices will range from ¬1,500-¬20,000 per night.
* Later in the year, a new 161-room Mandarin Oriental is opening in the residential area of Palmeraie, about 20 minutes away from the center of town. I saw a few early photos yesterday and it looks gorgeous, with beautiful views of the Atlas mountains and ornate interiors--I call dibs on the blue room! And, of course, the Mandarin Oriental spas are always excellent so I would definitely book a few treatments.
Do you already have a favorite Marrakech hideaway? Let me know your tips.
Further reading: *"Morocco to the Max" (CNT, June 2006) * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Giglio, Italy and Pardini's Hermitage

Tue, 1 Sep 2009 14:34:43 +0200

This past week I continued on my quest for new Italian discoveries (an undertaking that is far from disagreeable, I may add) with a jaunt to Giglio, a small island off the Tuscan coast, the lesser known sister to Elba and an hour ferry ride from Porto Santo Stefano. It's a lovely spot, a mostly mountainous stretch that drops into some of the most beautifully clear water in Italy--when you snorkel you can see about 20 meters below you and the diversity of the fish is a testament to how the Tuscan coast has really campaigned to clean things up in the last few years.
I stayed at Pardini's Hermitage perched on its own little bay above the Tyrrhenian Sea and I loved the vibe of the place; it's old school, eccentric, slightly madcap and bohemian, and somewhere you really feel away from everything despite being only a fifteen minute boat ride from Giglio's main port and having free WiFi access. I was also very impressed by the quality of the food (a delicious pappa al pomodoro soup, just-caught orata, and creamy risotto with fresh seafood) and the overall organic ethos of the place--the homemade vinegar is made with local thyme and other herbs, the olive oil comes from the owners' other farm in Grosseto and the ricotta and yogurt are from the owners' goats just up the hill.
Apart from eating, swimming and snorkeling, reading, visiting the animals on the property's farm (including a donkey named Spartico) and hiking, there wasn't a lot to tempt me away from the area. (Not to mention it is still high season in Italy, which means the main beaches and towns were crawling with people.) I'll save my sightseeing for next spring when the wildflowers are blooming and the island is blissfully empty, though at the Hermitage things already felt that way. Just a couple of words of warning: the place isn't ideal for toddlers (think steep stone paths and drops into the sea off rocks) or people who like a jam-packed itinerary, and don't be alarmed by the Web site, which could do with a bit of an update.
Further reading: * Ondine on Vernazza, the budget-conscious crowd's Portofino. * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide.

The Green T. House: Beijing's Bathing Beauties

Fri, 28 Aug 2009 08:18:29 +0200

I am a bath fan. It could be because I spent my first decade on earth in Ireland and England--drafty houses and infernal cold rain make them a must--or the fact that I am a water sign, or that lying in a tub with a fashion magazine and a glass of wine is one of my favorite ways to relax. But regardless, tubs (and steam rooms, saunas, and Jacuzzis) are a mania for this correspondent.
So it was with great interest that I found out about a newly opened "bath house residence" on the outskirts of Beijing. Set in the Green T. House living complex, which is also home to a funky restaurant and tea house, this new private villa has a huge bath area based on those favored by the Tang emperor, and a 20-person Jacuzzi as well as a circulating mineral pool with a waterfall on the roof terrace. You can book the place for the day, enjoying spa treatments and a meal, or throw a high-end slumber party by renting it for the night (the house sleeps up to eight in loft bedrooms). I like the idea of an overnight, especially with the option of getting an eight-hand massage in front of an open fireplace after dinner, and languishing in a bath before falling asleep. If I were heading to Beijing anytime soon, I would certainly take a dip.
Further reading: * Ondine on Vernazza, the budget-conscious crowd's Portofino. * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide.

Vernazza: The Budget Conscious Crowd's Portofino

Mon, 17 Aug 2009 22:44:33 +0200

Looking for an inexpensive Italian coastal getaway that's got plenty of charm, sun, and beautiful backdrops? Vernazza, in the Cinque Terre, is one of my favorite towns in the country. I'm even loath to write about it because it's such a gem.
I was just back there for my annual pilgrimage, and despite being on the Rick Steves trail, crowded with day trippers during high season, the place still has its own unspoilable charm--pastel colored buildings with laundry hanging from their windows, old geezers who make a living room out of the seafront piazza, local kids diving off the pier, and rooms that can still be booked for 100 euros or less. Admittedly most of the accommodations are not luxurious and you have to climb a hundred steps to get to Gianni Franzi's rooms, where I usually stay, but I hardly spend time there except to sleep.
There is too much to entertain outside: I stay busy eating at Gianni's trattoria (plates of marinated anchovies in lemon juice, fritto misto, spaghetti al vongole, whole fish in the oven and the pesto the region's famous for), swimming off the aforementioned pier where a swimming-only lane in the cove means undisturbed laps, reading at an outside table at the bar in the main square, and taking hikes between the five picturesque villages that have given this area UNESCO heritage designation. My favorite of the trails is between Vernazza and Corniglia--it is ruggedly beautiful and the views are spectacular (try to time ending your walk as the sun sets). At night, the town becomes more peaceful when travelers from La Spezia and Porto Venere head to their hotels and only residents and people staying in the village remain.
Next time I want to try Vernazza's La Mala, a newish boutique hotel that overlooks the sea. It's a bit more pricey than the other hotels, but reviews are good.
Further reading: * Ondine on Brooklyn's own little Italian empire * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The Shangri-La Villingili Opens in the Maldives

Sat, 15 Aug 2009 13:59:59 +0200

It may be summer in the States (or at least some semblance of it), but if you are like me, you're already plotting where to escape when ice, snow, and heavy jackets hit in a few months. Top of my list? The just-opened Shangri-La Villingili in the Maldives, with overwater bungalows (my dream accommodation), postcard-perfect powder white sand, and crystal-clear water. There's also a spa with a yoga pavilion overlooking the Indian Ocean--yoga with a view is, naturally, more conducive to a deep meditational state. I also like the idea of the 11-mile bike path that leads across five islands past villages and lush jungle. The cherry on the travel sundae is the great diving in the reefs nearby--or maybe the boat trips across the equator (always a good trophy). The only question now is to how to fund such a blissful getaway. . . .
Further reading: * Condé Nast Traveler's 2008 Dream Trip winner stayed in overwater villas at the One&Only Reethi Rah in the Maldives. Read the Perrin Post blog for her favorite moments from the trip. * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide.

Flight Patterns: A Century of Stories about Flying

Tue, 4 Aug 2009 14:07:15 +0200

Flying provokes myriad emotions for many of us: excitement, fear, the thrill of adventure, discomfort, a sense of escape and claustrophobia among them. A newly released anthology, Flight Patterns: A Century of Stories about Flying, edited by Dorothy Spears, features writings from aviation pioneers like Orville Wright, Charles A. Lindbergh, and Amelia Earhart to more contemporary musings on this mode of transport from authors like Thomas Beller, Walter Kirn, and David Sedaris. It's a good read, from tragic military tales to a teenager's awkward introduction to the mile high club to the final chapter of Beryl Markham's memoir, West with the Night, where she writes, "I could ask, 'Why risk it?' as I have been asked since, and I could answer, 'Each to his element.' By his nature a sailor must sail, by his nature a flyer must fly."
This particular correspondent has a real fear of flying. I dislike the lack of control; at each bout of turbulence, I worry that my future plans will be lost in an instant. I muscle through, though, because I love traveling too much. Reading the anthology was a good exercise: I realized how psychologically loaded flying is for most of us, and also how it provokes great writing. Available from Open City Books, $15.95.
Further reading: * Ondine on the importance of a good GM * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

The Importance of a Good GM

Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:54:22 +0200

As far as I am concerned, you can't overestimate the importance of a good hotel general manager, someone who is responsible for handling every whim of guests--dealing with any complaint large or small--as well as making sure everything from the restaurant service to room cleanings happens in the most timely, professional, and effortless manner possible.
It may be a cheesy reference, but I always think of the hotel manager in Pretty Woman, who doesn't bat an eyelash at the strange requests of Richard Gere and Julia Roberts and schools her on etiquette (the character was supposedly based on Jack Naderkhani, the general manager of the Raffles L'Ermitage in Los Angeles). James Sherwin is a similar legend in the hospitality business, a charming Brit who used to be the GM at the Carlyle and before that worked at London properties like the Connaught. He is the perfect gentleman and never reveals the secrets of his many celebrity clients--in fact, he is so beloved that he has become a regular fixture on the New York social scene. When he left the Carlyle a couple of years ago to start a consulting business, I wondered where he might pop up next.
This week I got my answer: Sherwin is going to be at the helm of the newly renovated Mark hotel on 77th Street in Manhattan, which just had its soft opening last Monday. Expect a huge overhaul by the fabulous Jacques Grange (he designed many of Yves Saint Laurent's chic retreats and is one of France's most renowned interior designers), a Jean Georges restaurant with 24-hour room service, and a Frédéric Fekkai salon. With Sherwin on board, I bet it is going to be one of the best hotels in New York.
Further reading: * "Calibrating a Hotel for the Luxury Market," The New York Times on the Mark * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

No More Cargo: Pet Airways Launches

Tue, 21 Jul 2009 11:12:18 +0200

I want a dog. A small dog with a big dog personality. But is it responsible for a writer who goes on the road at least every two weeks--New York, Miami, Hawaii, Mexico, Colombia, etc. etc.--to procure a pup?
It is still far from clear, but I must admit that I was heartened to read about the launch of the five-airplane fleet of Pet Airways this week. The brainchild of Dan Wiesel and Alysa Binder, whose Jack Russell had simply had it with traumatic cargo experiences, this new service shuttles Fido and Whiskers from New York to Washington, D.C., Chicago, Denver, and Los Angeles in the main cabin (one might say first class). Fares aren't necessarily cheap--$199 one way from New York to Chicago and $299 from New York to Los Angeles (animal transport fees at most major airlines run about $150)--but for peace of mind it seems a no-brainer. (I've read plenty of horror stories about someone's beloved canine escaping from cargo handlers never to be seen again, or suffocating en route.) With pick-up and drop-off lounges, complimentary pre-boarding walks, attendants on hand to check air temperature and food every 15 minutes, and special lodges for overnight stays, this airline is fit for the most well-pawed of pooches.
Despite it seeming to be a risky economic venture in these times, the carrier is already booked for the next two months. Now I will just have to wait for them to add international routes.
Further reading: * Kitty Goes to Memphis, and Other Tales of Flying Fur * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Brooklyn’s Own Little Empire

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 17:14:41 +0200

On my recent trip back to New York, I couldn't miss a pilgrimage to Frankies 457, one of my favorite haunts in Carroll Gardens. The restaurant enjoyed a buzzy opening a few years back; it was the perfect spot for dinner with friends or a lunch getaway in an area that was short on great restaurants. Although Carroll Gardens has become hipster central, Frankies is still a go-to spot for great salads like escarole with sliced red onion, walnuts, and pecorino; homemade gnocchi marinara with fresh ricotta; and crostini with avocado and pesto. It's the way I most like to eat--simple dishes made with seasonal ingredients.
The owners--they are both named Frank--have been busy building a foodie empire since I left the city. Their excellent new coffee shop in Cobble Hill, Café Pedlar, has some of the best brews in the hood (I went with an iced café latte, which was good enough to make me forget my Italian espresso--just for a minute). The menu at Prime Meats, right next door to Frankies, emphasizes locally sourced produce and meat (eventually the duo would like to have their own farm upstate); and this fall, a café in Red Hook called Delightful Coffee Shop is set to open on the corner of Commerce and Van Brunt streets. If you're heading to Brooklyn, check out one of the boys' establishments--you'll get a taste of why people from the Upper West Side to Wall Street are trekking to this borough.
Further reading: * More from Ondine's New York trip: The Standard, not so standard * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

New York Standard: Not So Standard

Mon, 29 Jun 2009 21:31:33 +0200

I am sitting in bed at New York's Standard hotel staring out at the quintessential city view: the wide swath of Hudson River with its sailboats, tugs, and cruise ships; New Jersey on the other shore; and the Statue of Liberty in the distance. After a few months away from the city, it's been the perfect crash pad and at $195 a night, a relative bargain.
My stay happens to coincide with the much-anticipated opening of the hotel's restaurant, the Standard Grill, with Dan Silverman (formerly of Lever House) at the helm. It is a great space with a fun outdoor café for drinks, a big main dining room with circular red banquettes, and an open kitchen. The menu (here's a preview) has a good mix of comfort food and more ambitious choices, as well as appetizers like briny oysters and homemade pâtés. Our group particularly enjoyed the roast chicken for two, the organic Berkshire pork chop, Atlantic swordfish with ginger, soy, and lime, and duck-fat smashed potatoes and sugar snap peas. We had a table in the wine room, which is a beautiful space and quiet enough to have a conversation--the main room was in full loud swing. The bottom line? If you are coming to New York, book a table. I guarantee it will be one of the hottest reservations in town.
Further reading: * Below the Standard is the newly opened High Line, a gorgeous example of city renewal: an unused train track line that's been transformed into an elevated walkway with lovely gardens and plants. * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Been to Puglia Yet?

Tue, 23 Jun 2009 16:28:08 +0200

If the answer is no, then I highly--highly--suggest you add it to your wish list. I made my second sojourn there last week and found it's still made with my favorite ingredients: wonderful food (a cuisine that utilizes both ingredients from the coast and interior countryside), fascinating architecture (Greek, Norman, Baroque, you name it), beautiful beaches, and intimate hotels.
I parked myself back at Il Convento di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, a gorgeous former convent that has been restored to great effect by Alistair and Athena McAlpine and packed with treasures from their travels. (There is no Web site for the hotel; you need to call an English cell phone to make a booking 44-773-636-2328). I lazed by the pool, went for a stroll around the charming nearby village of Marittima, ate just-caught sea bass and shrimp, and enjoyed Athena's great conversation. I also made a side trip to Lecce, which has been described as the Florence of the south; after driving past arid fields bordered by massive gnarled olive trees, I took in the beautiful carvings in local churches. Puglia is definitely coming onto the radar, but I am surprised it isn't as well known by American travelers as it is with Brits. It should be.

To break up the trip back to Tuscany, I stopped in to Naples for a night. Another of Italy's underrated treasures, Naples is a place that most people only stop in on the way to Capri and the Amalfi Coast. Yes, it is gritty and chaotic, but I love the colorful dilapidated neighborhoods, the emerging contemporary art scene, and of course the pizza (more on that in a moment). I had been looking forward to checking out the Romeo hotel, which was on Condé Nast Traveler's 2009 Hot List. Talk about a hotel with a view. Vesuvius? Check. Sorrento and the Amalfi coast? Check. Even Capri? Check. But then there are the empty warehouses and a humming port, too; it's a vista that captures the soul of Naples. (And the small suspended pool on the rooftop is genius.)
Now back to the subject of pizza. This is, after all, the city that invented one of Italy's culinary treasures--don't even mention the pizza pies of Little Italy or Rome to a local. Da Michele sticks to the marinara and margherita varieties, both of which it has truly perfected. Then it was on to Sorbillo, a spot highly recommended by a Neapolitan friend. When I arrived, a huge crowd had congregated, and people were shouting, waving their hands, and talking on cell phones. A pint-sized old lady with a clipboard dealt with them as easily as a New York City club doorman. Once seated at our table, surrounded by generations of pizza worshippers, we tucked into chewy but crispy-crusted pies, the mozzarella just a tad smoky from the oven, the tomatoes perfectly crinkled. No matter that it was ten o'clock on Sunday night and work, school, or long drives awaited most of the diners. None of those things matters when a famous pie is on hand.
Further reading: * Something New Under the Sun: My first trip to Pulgia in 2006 * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwidewww.cnn.com

Lamu: Kenya’s Enchanted Isle

Thu, 18 Jun 2009 10:42:52 +0200

I just got an e-mail from Rizzoli about a new coffee table book that the publishing house will release this October, Lamu: Kenya's Enchanted Island. It got me thinking about my honeymoon, which I spent on the island, one of seven in an archipelago off the coast of Kenya.
A beautiful beach destination in a country much more famous for its safaris, Lamu feels like a secret hideaway. The island has a stone town dating back to the fourteenth century, wide pristine stretches of sand, and gorgeous diving conditions (parrot fish, trumpet fish, and red and yellow snapper among the sightings). The only way you can get around the place is by donkey or dhow; cars are prohibited. It is one of those places where you can truly tune out the rest of the world while immersing yourself in a rich culture and history.
On my honeymoon, I was impressed by the quality and breadth of hotel choices on Lamu. In Shela, there's the legendary Peponi and the lovely Fatuma's Tower, and farther afield on the island of Kiwayu, the hippie-chic Munira Island Camp and the luxe Kiwayu Safari Village. I wonder how things have changed since then. Turns out Sophy Roberts, a friend and fellow journalist, recently wrote a piece about Lamu for the Financial Times' weekend section. I have to confess that I'm jealous she was there so recently.
I would go back to Lamu in a heartbeat

Hot Hotels in Italy Opening This Summer

Thu, 4 Jun 2009 14:41:38 +0200

We are having a heat wave in Italy at the moment. Despite the almost unbearable 90-degree temperatures, May and June remain my favorite months here in Tuscany. We've got sunny skies; green fields full of wildflowers; cherries, zucchini, and artichokes are in season at the food markets; and there's no sign of the tourist fatigue that often sets in after the high season.
If all that sounds as irresistible to you as it does to me, here are some hotels opening in Italy this summer to keep on your radar:
* Il Salviatino will open in Florence on July 1. Located in one of my favorite neighborhoods, Fiesole, on a hill overlooking the city, the 54-room property is in a fifteenth-century villa with 11 acres of gardens, a holistic spa, a heated pool, and in-room fireplaces for the cooler months. A bit outside the fray, it sounds like the perfect retreat in frenetic Florence. * Also debuting in July near Siena, Castel Monastero is an eleventh-century hamlet that's been transformed into a resort with a huge spa and a Gordon Ramsay restaurant--his first foray into this part of the world. * I wrote about Sicily's Verdura Resort and Spa, a huge undertaking by Rocco Forte, a few weeks ago, and I am still just as curious to see this new property. Please share your thoughts if you've been or you plan on visiting. * And of course a number of great hotels that opened in the last year or so made it onto our 2009 Hot List, including the Romeo, the Four Seasons Florence, Castiglion del Bosco, and Borgo Santo Pietro. I have made it to all of them except the Romeo (planning a trip next month), and they all deserve the accolades.
Further reading: * Five top Tuscan restaurants * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

A New Reason to Hit the Jersey Shore This Summer

Tue, 19 May 2009 11:22:33 +0200

II have never been to the Jersey Shore. Well, actually that's not technically true: I went to see Velvet Revolver perform in Atlantic City. But I haven't ventured to the beaches there, even though plenty of my surfing pals have brought me back good reports. The opening of Bungalow, a 24-room boutique property in Long Branch could change that.
From the up-and-coming design group SIXX (this is its first hotel project) the Bungalow mixes a decidedly laid-back but stylish beach feel with contemporary accessories like lamps from Moss (one of my favorite stores in NYC), gorgeous surf photos by Jeff Devine, and light-filled rooms with huge bathtubs. If you like toys for grown-ups, don't miss the 1940s pool table and a vintage foosball table in the lobby. And I like the sound of the adjacent beach club, Avenue Nuit, designed by hot Brit architect David Collins. Sun-worshipper central by day, party spot after by night, it's got a rooftop pool and an outdoor fireplace.
Further reading: * André Balazs's chic motel Sunset Beach, one of my favorite beachside spots, has also just reopened for the season in Shelter Island. Rates start at $175 during the week and $370 over the weekends, better prices than years past. And there are few better spots for a mojito with a view on the east end of Long Island. * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide.

CHICAGO: Hot Town, Art in the City

Fri, 15 May 2009 10:44:43 +0200

I love Chicago. I started traveling there for work a few years ago, and I immediately became a fan, particularly after discovering some of the city's great hotels and restaurants. Among my favorite stops? The Peninsula for its luxurious rooms and perfect location; the newly refurbished Ritz-Carlton Chicago (which, confusingly, is actually a Four Seasons) for its impeccable but friendly service; Avec restaurant for its encyclopedic wine list and simple but excellent food (it was just nominated for a James Beard Award); and Ikram boutique, which Michelle Obama recently brought into the spotlight. Of course, the fact that the Obamas made their home in Chicago for so many years has given the city a little extra luster.
This month, there's another reason to book a ticket to the Windy City: On May 16, the Art Institute of Chicago will unveil its new Modern Wing, designed by Renzo Piano. Like Piano's lovely addition to New York's Morgan Library (see the New York Times's rave review), this one looks to be a beautifully understated addition, with the quintessential Piano light-filled entrance hall. The 264,000 square feet of new space will increase the Art Institute's size by a third, and museum-goers will enjoy iconic views of Millennium Park and Chicago's skyline (look at the reflection of the buildings on the museum's windows). The inaugural exhibition will feature the most recent work of superstar artist Cy Twombly--and don't miss architectural photographer Judith Turner's abstracts of the new wing.
There are plenty of other exhibits and museums opening around the country to get you in the traveling mood this spring and summer:
* A fascinating exhibit on Pompeii opened on May 3 at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
* Fashionistas will enjoy "Model as Muse," which opened May 6 at New York's Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum. While you're there, you might want to pick your favorite model of all time. (I have to go with Veruschka, Christy Turlington, and Daria Werbowy. See, I can't choose!)
* Also in Manhattan, starting May 15, is the Frank Lloyd Wright blockbuster at the Guggenheim.
* Santa Fe debuts its New Mexico History Museum on May 24.
* You can take a look at early-twentieth-century skyscrapers at the Philadelphia Museum of Art starting June 6.
* An exhibition on Georgia O' Keefe and the influence of modernist Arthur Dove on her work opens on June 7 at the Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, in Williamstown, Massachusetts.
Anything I should add to the list? Let me know!

This Summer’s Hottest Boutique Music Festivals

Thu, 14 May 2009 14:45:50 +0200

Where to catch Lily Allen, Kraftwerk, Arcade Fire, Fleet Foxes, Franz Ferdinand, Kings of Leon, and other music-fest faves this summer
What: OUTSIDE LANDS, August 28-30 Where: Golden Gate Park, San Francisco The Vibe: Jack Johnson and Ben Harper are alumni of this West Coast eco-chic festival, now in its second season, which attracts surfers and hippie rockers with day jobs, and mixes jam-band acts with edgier alternatives. What to Bring: Stay hip and hydrated with the latest from Blue Q, an eco-conscious accessories company that specializes in water bottles ($18).  Don't Miss: The wine-tasting tents--sample the latest Napa vintages, plus super-fresh Hog Island oysters.  In the Hood: Take a side trip to hike along the beautiful Point Reyes National Seashore, an hour north of San Fran (nps.gov/pore).
What: HOVE, June 22-23,  Where: Tromøy Island, Norway The Vibe: One of the Continent's most exciting and eclectic showcases after only two years (Jay-Z headlined in 2008), this carbon-neutral festival attracts outdoorsy types because of its bucolic Scandinavian countryside setting--think fairy-tale forests, pristine beaches, and clear, fish-filled lakes. What to Bring: Want to keep up with crazy Scandi style? Pack a graphic bag by Finnish textile authority Marimekko ($469). Don't Miss: The Killers, headlining this year's lineup, along with Franz Ferdinand, Fleet Foxes, and the Ting Tings.  In the Hood: Check out the former home of Henrik Ibsen, the country's most famous playwright, which is now a museum in nearby Grimstad (gbm.no/ibsenmuseet.html).
What: BESTIVAL, September 11-13  Where: Robin Hill Country Park, Isle of Wight, U.K. The Vibe: Fancy dress parade in the English countryside, pulling university types and those old enough to know better. When it comes to the music, anything goes, from dance to alternative--and an army of supercool DJs, including founder Rob da Bank, spin daily.  What to Bring: Jimmy Choo doesn't normally design for festival follies--which is why the stiletto king teamed up with Hunter Boots to keep feet dry in fun croc-print wellies ($395). Don't Miss: Kraftwerk and Massive Attack. And if you fancy a bit of burlesque with your crumpets, the tea tent offers just that. In the Hood: A pint of Greene King IPA at the Hare & Hounds pub, close to the action and with oodles of English atmosphere (Downend Rd.; 44-198-352-3446).  What: ROCK EN SEINE, August 28-30 Where: Saint-Cloud Park, Paris The Vibe: Rock and alternative fete with a French focus--Arcade Fire, the Raconteurs, Louis XVI, and Rage Against the Machine are among the boldfaced names that have played to an audience of industry insiders and hipster French kids too cool to abandon Paris for their parents' country homes in sultry August.  What to Bring: Pop on a light cardi by record label turned fashion label Tigersushi, known for underground electro ($140).  Don't Miss: Leave plenty of time for une promenade on the grounds of the Château de Saint-Cloud, a maze of statues, fountains, and nooks perfect for une piquenique.  In the Hood: Take the subway from Boulogne to the Left Bank in central Paris for summer sales on designer duds like Paul & Joe (14 rue Commines) and Vanessa Bruno (12 rue Castiglione).
What: WAY OUT WEST, August 14-15,  Where: Gothenburg, Sweden The Vibe: Alumni include international A-listers Kanye West and Neil Young as well as native talent such as Lykke Li and The Hives, but this northern European number remains obscure, drawing a slightly older crowd who take their music, and their food (everything's organic here), seriously. What to Bring: Channel Helena Christensen and the rest of the Nordic set in a belt by Odd Molly, a Stockholm fashion fave of the supermodel's ($149). Don't Miss: Big acts on the roster this year include Lily Allen, Bon Iver, and the Arctic Monkeys. In the Hood: Take a side trip to Styrsö, a beautiful island just outside Gothenburg, and tool around on a three-wheel flakmoped.
What: BENICASSIM, July 16-19  Where: Costa del Azahar, between Valencia and Barcelona The Vibe: International but edgy, this is arguably Europe's hottest summer road trip, patronized by indie fans who come for a mega-party in the Spanish sun. Last year's top acts included Hot Chip, Gnarls Barkley, and Mika.  What to Bring: Don't miss a second of the action with the Sony Webbie HD MP4 camera, a video-camera hybrid--and upload the results directly to YouTube ($200).  Don't Miss: Oasis, Kings of Leon, and Franz Ferdinand are all on the bill for '09--and the nearby beach is a good spot to work on your tan. In the Hood: Sample the Valencian specialty cocktail Agua de Valencia at the Café Sant Jaume bar in this gem of a city an hour by train from the festival (51 Calle Caballeros; 34-96-391-2401).

Top Five Favorite Tuscany Restaurants

Sun, 10 May 2009 14:12:31 +0200

Recently, Twitter user @deborahhankin asked Wendy Perrin (@wendyperrin), "In two weeks I'm headed to Lake Como area and then down to Tuscany. Any favorite restaurants you can recommend?" Wendy forwarded the question on to the Daily Traveler, a.k.a. the Gluttonous Ones. We then put Italy expert Ondine Cohane on the case. This is not an exhaustive list, but below find five spots where Ondine has had some of the best meals in her adopted home:
* La Pineta: "This one-room restaurant in Marina di Bibbona on the Tuscan coast is my favorite pick for seafood; I make the pilgrimage whenever I can. Chef Luciano Zazzeri, a former fisherman, has three boats that provide him with his daily catch, and he is an alchemist at bringing out the best in his simple but incredible dishes. It's no wonder that it's hard to get a reservation. Don't miss the crudo (raw fish), spaghetti alle vongole, and the outstanding wine list. The restaurant is about an hour southwest of Florence and makes a fun day-trip (Via dei 27 Cavalleggeri Nord; 39-0586-600-016)."
* Cavolo Nero: "This local foodie magnet, tucked away in an un-touristy part of Florence, is one of the city's underrated gems as far as I am concerned. The menu emphasizes seasonal dishes to great effect--ask the owners what they recommend that day and you'll eat one of the best meals of your trip, at prices that are relatively inexpensive (22 Via dell'Ardiglione; 39-055-294-744.)"
* Le Logge: "This Sienese institution is housed in a former pharmacy right off Siena's Campo, the city's huge main square, but despite its popularity I always eat well. The emphasis here is on Tuscan classics like taglierini al tartufo and hearty meat dishes. Sadly, owner Gianni Brunelli recently died but his family is continuing his legacy for great food and wine (33 Via del Porrione; 39-0577-48-013."
* Trattoria Il Leccio: "I just had a fabulous lunch at this trattoria in Sant'Angelo in Colle, a beautiful little town not far from Montalcino and the region's wonderful Brunellos. I love the menu--I had artichoke carpaccio, a fava bean salad with fresh pecorino, and melt-in-your-mouth ravioli with butter and sage (spring vegetables are in season right now, which makes for great eating). And the wine list has most of the best vintages from neighboring vineyards (there is even a little wine store and bar next door so you can take a bottle home). This is where the most famous producers eat, a testament to how good it is, but the restaurant thankfully remains unpretentious (1/3-5 Piazza Castello; 39-0577-844-175)."
* Arnolfo: "I am overdue in making a return trip but this Michelin-starred destination restaurant in Colle di Val d' Elsa is certainly worth its accolades. Chef Gaetano Trovato is one of the region's most consistent stars and is always experimenting, even after two decades on the scene. Worth the splurge. Oh, and the views are fab too (50-52A Via XX Settembre; 39-0577-920-549."
Need more ideas? Check out some of Ondine's other picks in the Tuscany round-up that ran in Condé Nast Traveler's September issue. And readers, let us know if you have any other favorites @CNTraveler.

More for the Wish List: South Africa

Mon, 27 Apr 2009 17:08:02 +0200

I have been thinking about South Africa a lot this week. Mostly because of the recent election, of course, but also because my husband has some South African guests staying with us. Regardless of what you think of Jacob Zuma (and I will stay out of politics here), there is no disputing that the country has plenty to attract tourists: wine, wildlife, and gorgeous natural surroundings from bush to beach.
Cape Town is consistently a reader favorite at Condé Nast Traveler, and with the opening of the One & Only the city is going to become even more popular. Nelson Mandela and Mariah Carey were among the bold names at the grand opening, and it sounds like it is going to be an impressive property with a 3767 square-foot infinity-edge swimming pool (I am trying to visualize that), a huge spa and fitness center, both a Gordon Ramsay Maze and a Nobu restaurant (the first in Africa), and gorgeous views of iconic Table Mountain.
When I visited Cape Town in the early 90s I stayed at the beautiful Mount Nelson Hotel before going on Safari in Botswana, but there are great places to see game in South Africa. I got an email from a friend this week asked whether she should stay at Singita lodge or Londolozi for her honeymoon. I am sure she would be happy in either spot, but if you have visited them, let me know which you would choose. Another option would the brand new Cliff Lodge, a two-bedroom retreat with its own swimming pool and dining room and the latest addition to Richard Branson's Ulusaba Private Game Reserve. Apparently Christian Slater was the inaugural and very happy guest.
Further reading: * Ulusaba's Cliff House has an opening special: Before June 30, 2009, you can stay 4 nights, pay 3 nights; stay 5 nights, pay 4 nights; or stay 7 nights, pay 5 nights. This came to us by press release, but it's not yet online, so call the property directly to inquire.  * Travel Wish List 2009

Great Hotels Are Still Opening Their Doors

Fri, 17 Apr 2009 19:57:24 +0200

Despite some recession gloom casting shadows over the hospitality sector, I am happy to see that a number of big hotel players are opening exciting new properties this year. Rocco Forte, for example, who already has properties like Rome's Hotel de Russie, London's Brown, and the Hotel Amigo in Brussels under his belt, will debut two new hotels. The Augustine will launch in Prague in the next couple of months. A former thirteenth-century monastery with vaulted ceilings and spectacular views of Prague Castle, it will get a new dose of style from Forte's design-dynamo sister, Olga Polizzi. In late May, Forte's anticipated Sicily project, Verdura Golf Resort & Spa, will open for business on the southwest part of the island with a large spa, an 18-hole Kyle Phillips-designed golf course, and six restaurants. This seaside property sits on a huge plot of land near the Valley of the Temples; it is arguably Forte's most ambitious project yet.
The Aman Group is also set for expansion this year. I am looking forward to the unveiling of the Amangiri in southern Utah: the views look jaw dropping and I like a little luxury mixed into an outdoorsy vacation. Aman has also just opened the first part of its Montenegro project--you can read more about this fascinating country in David Ebershoff's Condé Nast Traveler feature--at the Villa Milocer, once Tito's summer residence. The completion of the resort, called Aman Sveti Stefan, will come in August, when the sturdy medieval buildings that face Villa Milocer across the bay are transformed into a hotel. This part of the coast was once a glamorous seaside getaway for the likes of Richard Burton and Sophia Loren, and the property claims mile-and-a-half-long private pink-sand beaches. A side trip to UNESCO-protected Kotor is a must.
Numerous resorts have put their construction on hold until 2010 in the hope that the economy will have taken a turn for the better by then. In the meantime, I will keep you posted on those forging ahead..

New Spots South of the Border

Wed, 8 Apr 2009 10:35:36 +0200

And now for some news south of the border.
I just found out that fashion designer Diesel has expanded into the hostelry business with the opening of Uxua Casa, a hotel in Trancoso on Brazil's Bahia coast. The nine one-, two- and three-bedroom cottages are right by the town's square but also just a five-minute walk to the beach. Trancoso sounds right up my alley: a barefoot chic village with just the right mix of hip but still low-key.
Another place on my wish list is Buenos Aires. Director Francis Ford Coppola has already had a second career as a hotelier with resorts in Guatemala and Belize, and now the Hollywood legend is turning his attention to Palermo Soho, the chicest neighborhood in Buenos Aires. Jardin Escondido debuted in early February with six bedrooms and a spacious studio. It sounds the perfect size for a weekend rental or a house party--the property includes a solar-heated pool, three levels of pretty gardens and an outdoor kitchen where you can sample grilled local steak.
In neighboring Uruguay, Jose Ignacio has also been on my radar (I keep hearing rumors that a Setai hotel is going to open there, but it is still a way off) and its newly opened Estancia Vik, a 4,000-acre ranch by the ocean, sounds worth a visit. The 12 suites are accessorized by the work of local Uruguayan artists and outdoor activities include riding the horses that make their home there (there is also a polo field), kite surfing, and fishing. There is even a chapel for those looking for a destination wedding site.
And in Mexico's San Miguel de Allende, one of the country's most beautiful colonial towns, Orient Express has just added Casa de Palma to its Casa de Sierra enclave. The 18th century mansion includes six suites with private plunge pools, copper tubs and flat screen TVs.

Frank Lloyd Wright Road Trip

Tue, 31 Mar 2009 10:07:11 +0200

It's hard to think of many architects who have influenced American design as much as Frank Lloyd Wright. To mark its 50th anniversary this May, New York's Guggenheim Museum will debut a huge retrospective of Wright's work in one of his most celebrated buildings. "Frank Lloyd Wright: From Within Outward" will showcase 62 of the projects--from the residential to the civic--that the architect tackled over his 70-plus year career, as well as a couple of hundred of his drawings, many of them on view to the public for the first time. I want to see Wright's 1957 urban revitalization model for Baghdad, which was, unfortunately, never realized.
As I learn more about the man behind the models, though, I become increasingly interested in Wright's personal life. He was the complete opposite of his tranquil designs, full of tempestuous marriages and ugly divorces, affairs, and tragedy (one of his lovers died in a fire set by a disgruntled manservant). How fascinating that under these almost soap opera-like conditions, Wright created peaceful, decidedly harmonic buildings. If I were to plan a "Road Trip to Discovering Frank Lloyd Wright," here's how it would go:
* I'd start at Graycliff in upstate New York, with its sun-filled spaces. Supposedly, the property's former owner was losing her sight, and asked for it to be built with lots of light.
* Then on to Pennsylvania's Fallingwater, a dramatic cantilevered structure built over a waterfall.
* There would have to be a couple of stops in Chicago, where Wright lived for most of his adult life. The Frederick C. Robie House, built between 1908 and 1910, is perhaps the greatest example of the architect's Prairie style, and with its 100-year anniversary coming up, the building has undergone massive restoration. Unity Temple is considered one of the most important projects of Wright's career. And of course, his home/studio would be a must-stop. Take a look at wrightplus.org for suggested tours in town.
* Next up, Ohio's Westcott House, another Prairie-style icon. It only opened to the public in 2005, when it became a museum.
* Wright's only fully realized skyscraper, Price Tower in Bartlesville, Oklahoma, is now a museum and hotel.
* In Hollywood, Wright designed the Hollyhock House for an oil heiress (check out an excerpt from his letter on the Web site's home page). And I couldn't leave Los Angeles without seeing the Ennis House.
Any other stops I should add? Let me know.

24 Hours in Rome (Spent Eating)

Tue, 24 Mar 2009 17:27:28 +0100

Just back from a quick getaway to Rome and am happy to report that the city, unsurprisingly of course, continues to be one of my favorite European capitals. The weather helped frame it in the very best light--it was one of those March days in the high 60s with sparkling sunshine--and despite being there for only about 24 hours, I made it to a couple of wonderful restaurants.
The first, in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Prati, was Settembrini, recommended by a friend who has just rented an apartment nearby. It was wonderful--intimate and well designed with a great small menu. I particularly liked the dentice, a type of white fish with buffalo mozzarella and stewed tomatoes--having fish in a caprese-like concoction was unexpected and delicious. And the wine list was as good as my friend had promised with a large range of excellent vintages under 100 euros; we sampled the cult wine Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from 1980 for just 80 euros (the producer gives artisanal new meaning).
Then the next day, after a long walk up along Passeggiata del Gianicolo with its views over the whole city, I headed down into Trastevere to Da Lucia for lunch (Vicolo del Mattonato 2, 06 580 36 01). My dear friend and fellow travel writer, Danielle Pergament, has turned the quest for a great cacio e pepe pasta (with pecorino and cracked black pepper) into a quasi religion, and although she rates Taverna Romana the very best, Da Lucia is also high on her list. Me too! And the marinated alici (anchovies) here are also exemplary. After a carafe of wine and a quick siesta, it was back on the train home to Tuscany. Perfect!
If you are heading to Rome anytime soon, read after the jump for some more of my favorite things to do.
* Have a cocktail at Freni e Frizioni (turn off the volume on your computer beforehand to avoid the annoying music on the site) on a balmy late spring night. The buffet of bar snacks makes a great dinner alternative if you are on a recession-sensitive itinerary.
* Wander the racks of TAD (again, turn your volume down) opposite the Hotel de Russie. Most of the designer clothing and beautiful housewares are too expensive for my budget, but I still love fantasizing about what I would buy if I could. At the very least, I try to pick up a gorgeous bouquet of flowers from the little boutique in the front.
* Take a walk along Via Giulia with its wonderful architecture; it feels a world away from the chaos of nearby Campo dei Fiori.
* Duck into the Santa Maria del Popolo church on the Piazza del Popolo. Hidden in the far left chapel are two canvases that show Caravaggio at the height of his dramatic genius.
* Eat ice cream from San Crispino. It's a tourist trap but, hell, it's good.
* Have a foodie meal at San Lorenzo's Uno e Bino (Via degli Equi 58, +39-06-446-0702); the wine list is great, too.

Recession Eats: NYC Still Dining

Tue, 17 Mar 2009 12:39:56 +0100

I just spent two weeks in New York and, as always when in town, I ate up a storm. The city is truly a foodie paradise, and I am happy to report that despite the recession, new eateries are opening their doors at a good clip. I was struck by how crowded the best spots were, especially downtown in neighborhoods like the West Village and the Lower East Side. "If your 401K can take such a nosedive so quickly, maybe it's better to invest in a good meal that you can actually enjoy" seemed the unspoken sentiment. Most of the places that I ate weren't exorbitant, though, and the dishes were mostly unfussy, concentrating on tasty ingredients that spoke for themselves. Read after the jump for my list of the best places I dined, where I want to eat next, and a few of my perennial favorites.
* The three-month-old 10 Downing is NYC's current darling for good reason. The Brussels sprouts mixed with anchovies, breadcrumbs and garlic and topped with a poached egg, and the gnocchi with butternut squash made me swoon, although the acoustics were terrible--if you are looking for a quiet tête-à-tête, head elsewhere. Check out the reviews from Frank Bruni and Adam Platt to work up your appetite; then book well in advance.
* I consider myself a pizza expert at this point (or, should I say, I eat as much pizza as possible in the name of research). When I heard about the brick oven pies at the recently opened Company, cleverly coined co. pane, I immediately went to check it out. My favorite samplings were the flambé with béchamel, parmesan, buffalo mozzarella, caramelized onions and lardons (although my Tuscan friends who are pizza purists would have been shocked) and the straight-ahead Margarita. Yum.
* Though Eletteria's location on 8th Street seems an odd choice, I enjoyed the innovative and eclectic menu (not to mention the wine list). Among the highlights: cavatelli with octopus, cranberry beans and Szechuan pepper and the simple but delicious rice cakes with lentils, tomato and ginger. Beforehand I had a drink with my friend and CNT Senior Editor Kate Maxwell at Bobo. Don't miss their Pisco Sour.
* I wasn't able to go as it only opened on Tuesday night but next time I am in town Scuderia is high on the list. The brainchild of Leyla Marchetto (who, funnily enough, did a stint at Condé Nast Traveler), it seems to have all the ingredients for a bustling delicious neighborhood trattoria--having enjoyed many an excellent meal at her dad's inimitable Da Silvano, I imagine the same success for Leyla.
* Nearby, Minetta Tavern is another must-stop for the next eating pilgrimage (it opened the same night as Scuderia). The latest from Keith McNally (he of Balthazar and Pastis fame), it promises great bistro fare in a West Village icon--think classics like côte de boeuf in an atmospheric setting of vintage murals and banquettes.
* I also can't wait for the unveiling of the Monkey Bar in the Hotel Elysée. Graydon Carter, Vanity Fair editor-in-chief and maestro of the Waverly Inn, Jeff Klein, the hip hotelier of New York's City Club and Sunset Tower in Los Angeles, and Jeremy King, who has made the London's Wolseley an institution, have joined their formidable forces to reinvent this Midtown eatery and bar. In a few weeks, the results will be unveiled, and I wager that the place will become the watering hole of the city's glitterati. I hope I will be able to snag a table!
* As for some of my other, not new, favorites: I had a lovely ladies' lunch at Café Cluny (I can't get enough of the salmon tartare with Old Chatham sheep-milk yogurt and chive and beet potato chips). I found shelter at the Little Owl during the city's big snowstorm a couple of weeks ago; the place is so cozy and I loved dishes like the Arctic char. I greatly enjoyed the incredibly fresh sushi at Sushi Yasuda, even though the servers manage to make you feel like a culinary dunce. I drank a Bloody Mary that was a meal all in itself at the always buzzing Spotted Pig, accompanied by an order of their excellent deviled eggs. And talking of oeufs, the organic soft-boiled eggs and soldiers that I always order for breakfast at Balthazar are one of the city's greatest pleasures as far as I am concerned.

Colombia: The Latest from Cartagena and Bogota

Mon, 9 Mar 2009 16:38:18 +0100

As I wrote back in December, Colombia was high on my travel wish list for 2009. After a recent two-week visit, I am happy to report that I liked the place as much as I had hoped. In fact, it has quickly jumped on to my favorite destinations list and I am hoping to get back to Cartagena around the same time next year. What made it such a great trip?
First of all, the people are incredibly friendly and welcoming; they are aware that to many outsiders, the country is marred by its reputation for crime and cocaine instead of its beautiful natural attractions and wonderful hospitality--and they are quick to make an excellent impression as well as share their favorite spots with you. Then there was the sophisticated hotel and restaurant scene with its wonderful food and converted colonial spaces. Add in that the salsa music was some of the best I have ever heard, the temperatures (especially in Cartagena) balmy, and that the place was a real deal (the Colombian peso seemed to devalue daily). What's truly exciting is seeing its transformation from one of Latin America's most blighted countries to a revitalized urban and gastronomic center. If you can only make it to one of the two cities, go with Cartagena, the sexy Caribbean hot spot by the sea. There is plenty to entertain in the capital, as well. Read after the jump for things to do if you find yourself in this rising star.
* Visit the recently reopened Gold Museum in Bogota, which has one of the most incredible collections of precious metal in the world. The way the exhibits are curated and hung make it a sublime experience
* Head to André Carne des Res in the capital's outskirts for dinner on Friday or Saturday night. It's like falling down the rabbit hole with free flowing mojitos, locals dancing on the tables, and succulent grilled steak. You'll be forgiven if you don't remember much the morning after
* Get to know the fat-bottomed ladies of Botero; the country's most famous artist donated his own work and a great collection of contemporary art, not to mention his former home, as a museum in Bogota's historic center that's free to the public
* Do a restaurant crawl of Bogata's "G Zone" (for gourmet). Stops should include Peru transplant Rafael's, the scene-y Harry's Bar (Calle 70 #5-57; 57-1-321-3940) and the brand new Clos, a hip wine bar with fantastic food (Calle 69A #5-60; 57-1-321-2586)
* Lay in the pool at hip hotel La Passion in Cartagena and marvel at the city's skyline while working on your tan
* Bar hop and salsa your way through Cartagena on a Friday night. Start the evening with dinner at La Vitrola (reservations are a must) where live music gets people dancing between courses (2-01 Baloco; 57-5-664-8243) and then head to the atmospheric Café Havana, where the party spills out onto the street. Want to keep going? Quiebra Canto, which Gabriel Garcia Marquez likes to frequent when he is in town, goes until dawn (Parque Centenario; 57-5/664-1372)
* Sample ceviche at La Cevicheria opposite Cartagena's Hotel Santa Clara; one bite and you'll see why foodies like Anthony Bourdain worship at its altar
* Book a room at Cartagena's Agua. This Colonial building brilliantly restored into a boutique hotel epitomizes the city's new style
* Looking to rent your own colonial retreat? I stayed for two nights in a gorgeous private home with five bedrooms (the master suite has one of the best views) and a series of plunge pools, not to mention a fabulous onsite chef. Contact teitavillegas@mac.com if you want more info

Cheap Chic Generation

Mon, 2 Mar 2009 17:14:00 +0100

One of my favorite offshoots of the boutique hotel trend is something I like to term the "cheap chic" generation, properties that have grown up in the last few years and are aimed at people traveling on a budget but who don't want to compromise on style. Hip hotelier André Balazs struck gold in this market with his Standard Hotel outposts in Los Angeles, Miami (which I particularly love) and, now, New York. He also opened QT, a sort of chic hostel for grown-ups (think swimming pool in the lobby and double-size bunk beds) and subsequently sold it to a Spanish hotel group called Room Mate. Now Room Mate has re-re-launched QT as Grace and the company has plans in the works for new properties in Miami Beach as well as Mexico City, Buenos Aires, and Bogata.
Read after the jump for some more cheap chic properties (some newer, some older). Remember: Most of them aren't going to have the amenities of a Four Seasons, so set your expectations accordingly.
* The super stylish Ace Hotel, which debuted a few years back in Seattle and has properties in Portland and Palm Springs, will open its New York outpost this March. Rooms that I looked at online for the beginning of April included a bunk bed choice for $99 and a deluxe for $199.
* London's Hoxton offers things like unlimited local calls and free WiFi, as well as super comfy beds and Aveda products. Owned by the founder of Pret-A-Manger, its claim of being high quality but great value holds true: rates run from 59 to 199 pounds. Hoxton currently even has a one-pound offer (you'll have to act fast for that).
* In Paris, there's the the Phillipe Starck-designed Mama Shelter, which I blogged about last year, but another chic cheapie to keep on your radar is the low-budget, 20-room Hotel Amour with rooms starting at 99 euros.
* I haven't had a chance to stay yet, but the newish Roman hotel Crossing Condotti looks stylish. It has a great location and five rooms starting at 195 euros, which, yes, is cheap for the Eternal City.
Have others you think fit the bill and want to share? Post them below.

St Regis, Puerto Vallarta

Tue, 24 Feb 2009 18:28:34 +0100

After my stop in Los Angeles, it was back on the plane to Puerto Vallarta to check out the new St. Regis Punta Mita and the towns farther north. I was last in PV for my Condé Nast Traveler piece on surfing and driving Highway 200 along the West Coast of Mexico; I love this part of the Pacific coastline, with its mix of high-end and rustic accommodations, rugged mountains and beaches, and the fishing villages that are slowly being discovered.
The Punta Mita development is one of the most rarefied of the enclaves here and can sometimes feel too much like a manicured gated community if you really want to experience Mexican culture. Nonethless, the St. Regis is a beautiful addition (the other hotel here is the Four Seasons, which is also great but not as intimate). The villas are comfortable and spacious--most have views of the ocean--the food is fresh and unfussy, and the Remede spa is exquisite (the waiting area is a huge palapa within a courtyard of pools). Best of all, because of the way the resort is positioned between two rocky headlands, you feel like you are on a private beach with no neighbors. If you need a break in the sun with a gorgeous view and a good dose of luxury, I can think of few better spots (and you'll get the bragging rights of getting there soon after it opened).
Afterwards I headed to San Francisco, which locals refer to as San Pancho. As I wrote in my article, I went to Sayulita about ten years ago for an all-women surf camp and I fell for the off-the-radar charming appeal of the place. Now, though, I find everyone has discovered what was once my little slice of solitude; San Pancho has replaced it in my affections. There are some stylish restaurants like Mar Plata, which was a Condé Nast Traveler 2007 Hot Table, and cute hotels like Cielo Rojo, but it doesn't feel too slick. I like my Mexican towns a little dusty and romantic, not too touristy, and situated alongside a gorgeous beach. San Pancho fits the bill.
Recession special: Capitalizing on some of the best snow conditions Europe's had in years, Small Luxury Hotels of the World is offering a number of ski packages that include extras like passes and gourmet meals. In the Salzburg Alps, for example, the Hoteldorf Grüner Baum has a special for seven nights' accommodation, a five-day ski pass, breakfast and dinner, and an "underwater massage" (haven't tried that!) with rates starting at 1,016 euros. If you want to see some of the other choices, click on special offers on the home page and then "ski breaks."
Further reading: * Sun and fitness on the Mayan Riviera * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

LA Discoveries

Mon, 9 Feb 2009 21:12:39 +0100

Heading to Los Angeles? I was just there last week and have some new discoveries.
First stop: I checked into the Hotel Shangri-La in Santa Monica, which is undergoing a huge $30 million renovation. Not to be confused with the brand of the same name, this is a family-owned boutique hotel, right on Ocean Avenue. The property is still under construction--the restaurant, pool area and rooftop bar are to be completed in the next month or so--but I already love it. Rooms have original Art Deco details and are super comfy, and the views from the oceanside rooms are iconic. The staff is super friendly, from Matt, one of the managers, to the cleaning staff, to Freddie the valet, who could teach all of us how to do our jobs with a smile. For now, the property is offering special introductory rates of $265.
On Saturday night I headed to palate with some real foodies who always know the buzz-worthy places in town. Its location in Glendale is a bit strange, but helmed by Octavio Becerra (formerly of Patina) and concentrating on small dishes and an awesome wine list, the restaurant is arguably the most exciting in L.A. right now. The menu changes according to the season and what's available locally; we particularly liked the beet salad, the gnocchi with pumpkin, and the awesome cheese plate (house-churned butter and fresh baked bread--yum). We shared a wonderful bottle of Burgundy and, unusually, there is also a terrific selection of half bottles. It's hard to get a reservation since last month's best restaurant score in Los Angeles magazine, but if you can get in, try to snag a table in the more atmospheric back room.
If you are feeling in need of a truly awesome haircut, head to Chris McMillan's salon in Beverly Hills. He created Jennifer Aniston's famous Friends 'do and still takes care of her tresses. When he last visited Tuscany I had a cut from the maestro himself, but he is hard to pin down with all the celeb tending and travel he does. So on this trip I tried Jason Schenidman, who has been part of McMillan's team for about six years. He took an hour to get my travel-weary bob into shape, but, in my estimation, it's one of the best styles I've had in years (8944 Burton Way; 310-285-0088).
Don't forget to run along the beach during the day, walk along the pier at night, and people watch all the time--quintessential L.A. experiences.
Further reading: * L.A. may be the capital of low-key cool, but that's no reason to dress down. Trina Turk proves that sophisticated needn't be stuffy * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Affordable Europe

Mon, 2 Feb 2009 17:47:42 +0100

Last fall, starting in September, I traveled and wrote a story about affordable European destinations for Condé Nast Traveler's February issue. By October, with the economy tanking, it was clear that the piece would have even more relevance, and how all of us--magazine editors and travelers alike--were going to have to think increasingly about good value destinations. Luckily, the places that we chose--Valencia, Porto, Cornwall, and Cassis--were all exciting destinations that proved that under-the radar getaways can actually be more of an adventure than high-priced ones, especially in the off season.
In Cornwall, I especially enjoyed surfing outside St. Ives and my meal at Gurnard's Head Inn's fantastic sustainable restaurant; in Cassis, the Calanques, a series of fjords that form natural harbors between the limestone cliffs, were spectacular (even my friends who spend considerable time in South of France hadn't heard of them); in Porto, I loved the Duoro Valley, a short drive away, with its beautiful vineyards and up and coming wine--I would have loved to have spent the night at the family-owned Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo where I did a tasting; and in Valencia, I could have spent a whole day looking through the stalls at the Art Deco Mercado Central, a foodie's dream.
Magazine space didn't allow for printing all the places I loved. Read after the jump for my extra picks.
* In Cornwall, The Harbour in Port Isaac has fresh, local seafood and organic steak  * Porto's former stock exchange now houses O Comercial, which has a three-course, 10-euro lunch special and an excellent wine shop next door (Palacio da Bolsa, Rua Ferreira Borges; 351-22-332-2019)  * In Valencia, stop at the Art Deco St Jaume bar that looks on to Avenue Caballeros, the neighborhood's main drag. Try the Agua de Valencia, a potent local specialty of Cointreau mixed with Champagne and Valencian orange juice (Calle Caballeros, 51; 34-96-391-2401). The cozy, red-paneled Taverna Cavallers has reasonably priced wines by the glass and delicious pimientos (Calle Caballeros 23; 34-96-391-2516) * Cassis's Restaurant Le Bonaparte serves a famous version of bouillabaisse (14 Rue General Bonaparte; 33-4-42-01-80-84). You need to order this dish in advance, though, so be prepared!
Recession Special: Being based in Italy for part of the year has really opened up my eyes to the world of European budget airlines: some great ones are easyJet, Ryanair, Italy's blu-express (I just saw a Rome to Palermo flight advertised for 15.99 euros), and Spain's clickair. Reasonable tickets are especially easy to snag if you are willing to fly in shoulder or off-season periods. Sure, these flights tend to be in secondary airports and in-flight amenities are scarce, but I can handle the lack of legroom--or, in many cases, the lack of an assigned seat at all--for a few hours.
Further reading * Read the full story, "Europe's New Deal", here * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

What to Expect When Expecting a Good Hotel

Tue, 27 Jan 2009 20:22:31 +0100

Between November and April I tend to live a pretty nomadic lifestyle, traveling both for work and to visit friends and family. On a recent trip to the Mayan Riviera (as I mentioned in my last entry), I stayed in numerous places, both high-end and low-key, so I thought a lot about the importance of managing expectations when booking into a hotel.
I am comfortable in both luxury spots and more rustic getaways, but I'm frustrated by false advertising or heedless service. (Even if a place costs a couple hundred dollars, the people who work there should make sure guests are having a great time.) Before I commit, I take care to look for places that give a specific and accurate sense of what to expect, and then I make sure those descriptions match my needs and wants. So, how do you go about safeguarding your expectations before devoting time and money to a getaway?
Here are some tips:
* More often than not, when you hear word of a hotel opening, the news comes from someone who has found out about a noteworthy spot but hasn't yet seen the property. If you want more of a safety net, wait until a place has been reviewed in a list like Condé Nast Traveler's Hot List, where incognito writers fan out over the world and come back with the best openings of the year. Readers' choice awards and polls are a good secondary tool to editor and writer reviews. Keep in mind that smaller properties won't always make their way into polls, so don't rule them out if they don't appear.
* While TripAdvisor should not be your only evaluation tool, I do find it useful. If a place gets either extremely bad reviews or reviews that have a consistent theme (it's noisy, the service is snotty, the food is cruddy), it's something to pay attention to. One bad review may indicate a cranky traveler who is way off, but 20 usually signals a real problem.
* Finally, be honest about your own needs. Are you really still a maverick traveler, or did your vibe with hostel-like conditions disintegrate upon college graduation? Do you really like eco-chic places where the generator can go out at night, or is your idea of communing with nature more like a walk from your air-conditioned room to the pool along manicured trails? Do you want to go to an emerging destination where the hospitality sector is still uneven, or do you prefer to be in a well-oiled place with a long tradition of tourism?
We all have a responsibility: Hotels need to be honest about what they can and can't provide, travel writers and publications have a responsibility to provide honest evaluations, and travelers need to be realistic about their expectations. Personally, if I keep all of these things in mind, I end up pleasantly surprised--both in new destinations and those I know well.
Recession special: Food & Wine Trails, owned by Larry Martin and chosen this year by Condé Nast Traveler as the world's top wine cruise travel specialist, has announced discounts and cruise credits of up to $1,000 per person for some of its 2009 wine cruises. Look for the July 4 to July 14 cruise with Franciscan and Simi wineries, the July 14 to July 25 cruise hosted by Napa Valley's Silenus Vintners, and Robert Mondavi's cruise from September 4 to 16. Also, the Food & Wine Trails brochure say that "prices start at $2,349 per person including free round-trip airfare," and "bookings made by March 1 will receive prepaid gratuities worth up to $396." Go here and then click on "Winter 2009" to read the newsletter and find out more about these deals.
Further reading: * Wendy reveals what you need to know before you nab a so-called cruise "deal" on the Perrin Post. * Condé Nast Traveler's 2008 Hot List * The 2009 Gold List: The best places to stay in the world, selected by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide

Take Me Home, Italian Roads

Wed, 21 Jan 2009 19:51:18 +0100

I've just completed a jaunt along Mexico's Mayan Riviera (more on that soon), and although I still have another month or so on the road, word of new openings in my adopted country, Italy, has been tempting me home. If you are heading that way this year, here are some places that you, too, should keep on the radar.
In Naples, one of the most underrated cities in the country as far as I am concerned, the Romeo Hotel has just been unveiled near Piazza Municipio, and the cruise ship docks on a promenade that's the centerpiece of a bigger effort to beautify this part of town. Among the draws of the 85-room boutique property is its terrace-top outdoor pool, a huge fitness and spa area overlooking the Bay of Naples, and views of Capri and Mount Vesuvius from many of the rooms. (I also like the sound of the Italian modern artists' work the hotel has put together.)
In Sicily, Taormina is one of Italy's most beloved resort towns. In high season, though, the number of tourists there can be seriously off-putting, which is just why the soon-to-open La Plage sounds so appealing. The resort is on Isola Bella, a small island off the coast that's also a nature reserve. With boats for getaways nearby, the new property sounds close to the action but still secluded. Also opening in Sicily later this summer is über hotelier Rocco Forte's most ambitious property yet. Close to the Valley of the Temples and Agrigento, Verdura will add a significantly more upscale option for lodging on the southwest part of the island: It will include a destination spa, an 18-hole Kyle Phillips-designed golf course, and six restaurants, and for guests who become particularly enamored of the property, there are 55 private villas for sale.
And on the Amalfi Coast, another of Italy's preferred summer playgrounds, the Ragosta group will open a resort in March just outside the town of Vietri sul Mare. The Relais Paradiso will have terraces with views of the Bay of Salerno, laptops with complimentary WiFi access, iPods in all the rooms, and complimentary yoga and Pilates sessions daily. Come spring, sounds like there will be plenty of coastal distractions to keep me wandering.
Recession Special: The stylish Tides group's Mexican properties, the Tides Riviera Maya and the Tides Zihuatanejo (both on this year's Condé Nast Traveler Gold List) are offering airfare credits to tempt guests south of the border. If you book a $570 suite for four nights (that is the minimum stay), you get up to a $500 credit when you show your ticket purchase receipt. For a room costing $780, you get up to $700. Bookings need to be made by April 30 for stays that need to be taken by December 18.
Further reading: * Not Your Godfather's Sicily: Ondine discovers an old place with a new lease on life * Sun and Fitness in the Mayan Riviera * Word of Mouth: The buzz worldwide